2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 'Les Grandes Ruchottes' Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru

2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 'Les Grandes Ruchottes' Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France | 100% Chardonnay

Few names in Burgundy carry the quiet authority of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. Operating under his own label since 2001, Pierre-Yves Colin — often referred to simply as PYCM — established his domaine in Chassagne-Montrachet drawing first on purchased fruit, then, after 2005, on vineyards inherited from his father, the legendary Marc Colin. His guiding philosophy has always been precision over opulence: not the broad, hedonistic whites that once dominated the village, but something chiseled, focused, and revelatory of place. Jancis Robinson famously described his style as making Chassagne drink more like Riesling — a comparison that crystallized why collectors worldwide seek him out.

Les Grandes Ruchottes sits perched at the upper reaches of Chassagne's hillside, on bedrock nearly bare of topsoil. Bathonian limestone and chalk-clay marl rest above hard stone — a geological profile that forces the vines deep for sustenance, yielding whites of exceptional tension and breed. The fruit for this cuvée was sourced from the old Jean-Pierre Cornut plots and harvested early, on the 30th of August, a decisive call in a warm vintage that preserved the vineyard's signature freshness.

Grapes are pressed at slightly higher pressure than is conventional, allowing natural phenolics to provide texture and add aging potential. Fermentation takes place with native yeasts in barrel, a signature technique that coaxes complexity without imposing winemaker fingerprints over terroir. PYCM's trademark reductive approach completely tames any temptation toward overt, oaky luxury, keeping the wine focused and tense.

In the glass, the 2023 offers an immediately arresting nose of citrus oil, crushed stone, and acacia blossom with a subtle reductive undercurrent that lifts and expands with air. The palate builds beautifully, revealing juicy, vibrant fruit anchored by a fine, savoury backbone and an impeccable line of acidity. The finish is sensational in its length, leaving a lingering, chalky impression that speaks directly to its serious aging potential. This is a Chassagne that leans toward Puligny in its minerality and tension — precise, almost austere in its youth, and built for the long haul.

Drink: 2028–2038