2019 Vinyes Singulars Sumoi Barmei Red

Sitting somewhere between a red and a rosé, the Sumoi Barmei is one of those wines that refuses to be neatly categorized — and that's exactly the point. Made from 100% Sumoll, an ancient Catalan variety that nearly vanished from the region's vineyards, this is a wine of real character: bright cherry and raspberry up front, with a subtle streak of dark licorice running through it and a freshness that makes it as enjoyable slightly chilled as at room temperature. Behind it is Ignasi, the driven and meticulous winemaker at Vinyes Singulars, who works a historic family estate in Penedès that has been farmed continuously since 1405. His approach is uncompromisingly natural — wild yeast fermentation, light skin maceration, no fining, no filtering, no added sulfur — letting the land and the grape do the talking. The whimsical name is a nod to his young daughter, whose pronunciation of Sumoll Vermell (Catalan for "light red") stuck, and whose artwork graces the label. Centuries of tradition, bottled with a light touch.